This dress is only the first go-around of sewing it and I have some minor adjustments to make, as always. In lieu of making a muslin, I usually just jump right into my fashion fabric unless I'm working with something really expensive. These were errant yardages I had in my stash along with some new trim I bought for no reason before deciding to use it on the dress.
First thing's first: the single side dart really bothers me. The looseness in the top can be attributed to that because there is only fitting going on in the side bust area. For a more fitted garment, you MUST use either combo bust and waist darts or use a princess seam of some sort. Why? Because it pulls the garment in much closer in two areas versus one.
If you're using a side dart in pattern making, make sure your garment hangs loosely from bust down. This would work on a trapeze-shape dress with the same type of yoke or a top too.
Technically my patterns shouldn't be all taped-up crazy like this, but I get excited and want to go into the fabric quickly. Secondly, I thought I could build the scallop facing into my yoke, but that didn't work. (My idea was flipping the scallops up, stitching, then turning but it doesn't work like that. I did however use the scallop edge for a template to draw my scallops onto the yoke pieces.
I also can't decide if the pocket facing shown on the right should mimic the shape of the pocket for a slightly less-bunchy pocket finish or if it's just my sewing. There is a 3rd piece to the pocket patterns which is the front of the skirt with extension for pocket bag, but I didn't show it with these patterns.
In the end, it's a totally wearable muslin! This item will be available for custom ordering in the Etsy shop soon!