Skip to main content

Scallop Pocket Dress

The last dress of my 5-garment dress collection, designed entirely and made from May to September this year. What a summer it was!

Although the pattern isn't 100% perfect, I'm really excited about the new tricks I got to use on this dress: a scalloped yoke using both this and this tutorial as well as inset square pockets on the front of the dress with a large trim around it.

 Ok, forgive me: we shot these in Michigan and I didn't have an iron or steamer on hand. The back got crinkly from the drive in!

This dress is only the first go-around of sewing it and I have some minor adjustments to make, as always. In lieu of making a muslin, I usually just jump right into my fashion fabric unless I'm working with something really expensive. These were errant yardages I had in my stash along with some new trim I bought for no reason before deciding to use it on the dress.

First thing's first: the single side dart really bothers me. The looseness in the top can be attributed to that because there is only fitting going on in the side bust area. For a more fitted garment, you MUST use either combo bust and waist darts or use a princess seam of some sort. Why? Because it pulls the garment in much closer in two areas versus one.

If you're using a side dart in pattern making, make sure your garment hangs loosely from bust down. This would work on a trapeze-shape dress with the same type of yoke or a top too.

Technically my patterns shouldn't be all taped-up crazy like this, but I get excited and want to go into the fabric quickly. Secondly, I thought I could build the scallop facing into my yoke, but that didn't work. (My idea was flipping the scallops up, stitching, then turning but it doesn't work like that. I did however use the scallop edge for a template to draw my scallops onto the yoke pieces.

I also can't decide if the pocket facing shown on the right should mimic the shape of the pocket for a slightly less-bunchy pocket finish or if it's just my sewing. There is a 3rd piece to the pocket patterns which is the front of the skirt with extension for pocket bag, but I didn't show it with these patterns.

 In the end, it's a totally wearable muslin! This item will be available for custom ordering in the Etsy shop soon!


  1. I love the colors! It may be your muslin but wow, it looks great. I love the scalloped yoke, it makes the dress so unique! Great design and sewing skills!

    1. Aww, thanks so much! I was really self-conscious of the overall bodice fit and the hem made me mad too! So I just went with it. Sometimes, you just have to finish it rather than make it 100% perfect. :)

  2. That is so pretty!! I have been wanting to make a dress with a scalloped yoke and have not been able to quite figure it out. I think I can do it now. Also, your hair is a gorgeous color of red.

  3. Thanks! Yeah, those tutorials helped out a lot. You have to really steam and press a bit, but it's worth it!

  4. I love this dress so much and your colors are so fun! I know what you mean about the darts, but I think it's so cute as is! Can't wait to see your next version!

  5. oh! how did i miss this! This i so fab, I reminds me of the dresses that Valentino did with the combined scalloped edging and mesh inserts along the arms and bust line. i love the matching trim too! i had planned to make a skirt once with a scalloped edge but i never got around to it so i have no tips!
    Will you need to put a dart in the front above the waist line do you think? Im not sure if your aiming for a tight bodice, but that would help?

    1. Hi Cat -

      I mentioned the fix for the bust dart in the blog. Yes, you would need to use both side dart and waist dart combo or a classic princess or armhole princess. I actually combined both waist and bust darts by rotating the excess of the waist dart into the bust dart, not realizing that it would change the overall fit. The illustrations in my patternmaking book are misleading.

      The next variation(s) will have a waist/side bust dart combo as I re-work the patter I made.


Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Latch Hook Rug Update

A little under a month ago I received all of my supplies to take on one of the biggest long-term projects I have ever taken on - a self-designed latch hook rug.

I don't know why, but I am clearly nuts. So beginning today I am posting photos each month, (preferably on the 1st of each month) progress of this gigantic shag rug. See how I started it here (scroll down past posting of my $10 dress). 

This is a photo of it today:

 Yes, I used the candelabra for scale. Haha. 
 This rug is really soft and is fun to run your fingers through. 

It doesn't look like much was accomplished, but though the number of packages we have gone through of pre-cut latch hook rug yarn already I have calculated that  we've used over 2500 strands for this ie.) 8 packages. I also just ordered 10 more packages of lime green since that's what I ran out of first and 6 more packages of straw yellow.

There is still quite a bit to go, but you see the blue row squares? Each of those are 10 rows. We cou…

DIY Trapeze Dress

I'm a pretty big fan of tent dresses (or trapeze dresses - call it what you want). They're simple, easy-to-make and you can have many variations of them. These are a fun style to wear for spring and summer! 
See this DIY from a Good Housekeeping Crafts book from 1971 - photos at the end of my own trapeze top from a while ago! (Bear with me on the photos here - this book is quite cumbersome and hard to scan.) 

Applique patterns, in case you wanted the dress to look EXACTLY like the photo. (But why?) 

How to cut the fabric efficiently. (This is actually pretty important cost-wise for you - especially with something this big.) 

Using pattern instructions from my patternmaking book from college, I created this swingy trapeze top a bit ago. I used sweater fabric from a thrift store find for the collar of this top. 

 I also opened up the back on the pattern to have a diamond shape. 

 It can easily be belted like in this photo for a blouse-y look. (Photo by Jane Chu.)

Have fun, kids…

The Lost Art of Rug Hooking

I am totally in love with the idea of this rug! But anyone who knows me shouldn't be surprised as I like stripes, vintage, and anything remotely psychedelic looking. 
The squares can be kept separate for rearranging or sewn together for a full rug. Be forewarned: these rugs take quite a long time to hook, so do this only if you have lots of free time. Or, I guess if you want to be working on it for years - whatever. 
On the contrary, these knots don't take too long to learn - mostly just muscle memory. You only need to buy a rug hook (which is still sold in most kits in craft stores) as well as the pre-cut yarn. In recent years, I find this proves to be slightly difficult as rug-hooking is a dying art, but you may be able to come across these yarn pieces online.

Of course, the fun part is that you can do whatever colors you want. I like this little chart that explains the reasons why you would pick each colorway - a little color theory here and there.  

And design your o…