Monday, June 29, 2015

KwikSew 3932 - Colorblock Queen

I realize I left everyone hanging after my last post, but I was busy moving again! Life has been weird, but at least it's been interesting?

I reconfigured my sewing space for a compact 2nd bedroom in a 2 bedroom apartment in Chicago again, so I am gradually re-adjusting to my life out here. It's good. I'm home, and that's all that matters.

This dress has been done for about 3 weeks now (with only about 8 hours of sewing) as many of you may have seen on the Instagram (@manicpop) but only yesterday did I get around to taking some photos of me in it before I actually wear it and go spilling stuff all over it.... like I normally do with ANY garment, unfortunately. Haha.

 Around my usual fabric store, I'm becoming known as the "Colorblock Queen" and I love it. They know me too well.

This dress is KwikSew 3932 and for the life of me, through Googling I can't believe I haven't seen any other renditions of anyone else making this out there. Are they put off by how many pattern pieces the pattern includes as one Pinterest user said? Do they hate colorblock? Are they intimidated by all the seam lines? Or is it the fact that it's a knit fabric pattern?

This pattern was in the "out of print" patterns on the McCall's website and immediately upon seeing it, I knew I had to have it. I'm currently taking a short break from making my own patterns to learn any extra tips and tricks from commercial patterns that I might not know. I'm learning that even commercial patterns are not free from the minor errors I make in patternmaking. 

For this pattern based on my measurements, I cut a size small since the pattern says the finished measurements are 34-35.5" bust, 24.75-26" waist, and 35.5-37" hips. My own current measurements are 34" bust, at times up to a 26.5" waist, and 34.5" hips. Not wanting it to be too tight in the waist, I went for the small even though that seemed to be too small. Lately in any of my woven patterns I make, I have been giving myself about a 1" wearing ease in the waist. With a knit pattern, there is typically a negative ease due to stretch factor but even accounting for negative ease, the pattern seemed like it would be too small at a size small.

HOWEVER, this dress turned out way looser than the measurements it said it would be, even using the correct 1/4" given seam allowance as knits give you way less seam allowance.  I know that this dress is supposed to be a slightly boxier silhouette (meaning it will have added design ease anyway), but even after finishing it, I pulled in the side seams about 1/2" on each side. It was that loose!

 I made mine in the suggested ponte knit and I love how the colors all went together. I have been working a ton more in stretch knits/knits in general and I am totally getting a handle on all of it. Bonus: I won't have to worry when my weight slightly fluctuates!

My only minor error is the back contrast at the neck not 100% lining up. However, I tried to align it about 4 times, pulling out the zipper each time and it really has to do with my technique (or lack thereof) with installing a zipper in a knit. It tends to stretch a bit when sewing, so it makes it more difficult even though nothing was wrong with the seam allowances in my sewing of the bands because those all matched. This dress is fully serged and finished on the inside.

Otherwise, this dress is totally awesome, colorful, comfortable, and was fun to make! Like I said, I finished it in about 8 hours worth but I also am known to be a super-quick sewer now. The instructions weren't difficult in the least bit (and I frequently found myself NOT referring to them or using my own little shortcuts while sewing this).

I have a feeling I'll be wearing this one quite a bit. If I make another one (and I probably might!) it will definitely be in the XS next time.

Don't shy away from this pattern. It was awesome!

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